If you want really good-looking spoons, you can purchase dozens of
blanks, already painted if desired, or plain, from the tackle places
mentioned above, for next to nothing. Spoons are some of the cheapest
lures you can use. It takes less than 10 minutes to hand-craft a great
looking spoon.
Our next step up is the most successful bass lure of all-time, the
plastic worm, and/or plastic bodies. All you need for these are a
melting pan, molds, liquid plastic, coloring, and flavoring if desired,
hardeners and softeners. All these can be found at the places I
mentioned earlier. To make worms and bodies, you simply mix the
pigment, flavor and sparkle with the plastic, melt it, and pour it into
the molds. When the plastic sets (in about 60 seconds), remove the
creature and drop it into cold water to finish hardening. That's it.
Next up is the most versatile lure ever invented, the jig. There are
two ways to approach crafting jigs. You can get a Hot Pot, and molds
and make your own jigheads and sinkers, or you can buy plain jigheads
and just paint and dress them at home. You can use scrap lead (but make
sure it is pure lead, with nothing added), or buy lead ingots to melt.
A good source of lead that I use is to go to your local Shooting Range
on a day when no one else is there, or at night, and go to the dirt
mounds behind the targets, and dig out all the lead bullets. You can
have 50 pounds of lead in less than 30 minutes.
When you are done, make sure you put all the dirt back where it came
from, and tamp it back down tightly. Just rinse the old bullets off
really good, and make sure they are completely dry before you melt
them, and you're good to go. Now, just melt the lead, set your hooks in
the molds and pour. After the jigs have set, just remove them, clip off
the sprues and paint and dress them like you want. For dressing lures,
a good Fly Tying Vise is a worthwhile investment.
Now we get a little more involved. Inline and French Spinners are next
on the list. These are a bit more complicated and require more
hand-work, but they are still not bad. You can make excellent versions
of Mepps, Roostertail and Panther Martin spinners with just a little
bit of work. You can make these by hand, but a wire bender is really
handy and speeds up the process greatly. They are available form the
above mentioned sources. All you do is thread your weighted lead body,
or beads onto the wire, attach a clevis and blade, or a blade directly
to the shaft, bend the wire into loops at both ends, attach a hook to
one end with a split ring, and your line to the other end. Finis! You
can dress the hook how you want it, and paint the body any way you
desire. You can vary the type of blade, or even use a propeller.
Spinnerbaits are a combination of the jig, and the spinner. To make
these, you start out making a jig, but before you pour the lead, you
add a pre-bent 90 degree wire, with a looped center, to the head,
running the same way as the hook point (up).
When the jig is set, you remove the unit and make a loop in the end of
the wire, and attach a blade with a swivel. Or you can attach a
propeller directly to the end of the shaft. Or, with stops and swivels,
you can attach multiple blades to the shaft. The spinner can be painted
and dressed to your desire.
The apex of lure making art is the solid lure, or 'plug'. I have made
these from wooden dowels, and whittled bodies from old pieces of
lumber, You can do this if you wish, but you can also purchase pre-cut
plastic bodies. If you go the wood route, for topwater lures,
I like balsa. It floats really well, and when sealed and finished, is
water-proof. For floating/diving and subsurface lures, I like Red
Cedar. It has a good nuetral bouyancy and weight to it. Draw your
design out on paper, then you can cut, whittle or sand the wood to the
proper shape.
If I need a 'cupped' face for poppers and chuggers, I shape the head
with a Dremel Rotary Tool. It does a fantastic job for cupping faces.
Next, sand the lure smooth, up to about 320 grit sandpaper.
Apply a water-proof finish, and paint it to your liking. When it's dry,
drill small holes to attach the hook hangers, lips, and line eye.
Attach your hook hangers, lips, blades, hooks and go fishing.
One tip: if you want a 'ratting' lure, simply cut the body in half
(wood only), hollow out a cavity, glue in a small plastic tube (straws
work good for this) and fill it with BBs. Then glue the halves back
together and sand over the joint, and finish the lure like normal. Now
you have a rattling lure.
Don't be afraid to get creative and experiment. That's what it's all,
about.
Happy Fishing!
To get the full "Tips For Making Fishing Lures" article you'll need to download it here.